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A tour of the West Coast of Scotland on the motorbikes. Part 2

Wednesday, July 1st, 2009

Well here I am again with part 2 of our adventure.  The second night as mentioned below, was a bit quieter, but I must admit that there was one ‘incident’ that I have to share with you all.  I was sitting out in the sun with a glass of wine before dinner, and watched slightly bemused, as a bloke rolled a crate past.

The man with the crate... wtf

The man with the crate... wtf

I couldn’t help myself, being the shy and retiring type, but ask him how far he had to go, rolling the crate (which was nearly as big as him, and obviously heavy!) I nearly spat out my wine when he said “Oh, 3 miles.  I thought it was easier doing this than going to get the Land Rover.” Right. Ok. Couldn’t say anything to that really, could I?

The next day was steaming hot again, so after a lovely omelette breakfast with Lesley – whose personal breakfast of choice is double chocolate chip cookies, we headed away – we are however going back next month, so we were not too miserable saying cheerio!  I managed not to get overtaken by a pedal cyclist or knocked off my Suzuki by any mad/suicidal coos.

We snuck in a wee loop (via the Sligachan again) up the Dunvegan road.  Lovely driving roads.  We did meet 3 mad bikers when we stopped at the Sligachan – and met them again in Portree – what a small island it is! No doubt we will see them again when they pop into Tyndrum!! We were given the heads-up that there was a severe weather warning for the West Coast…. eek! So, hot-footed it off of Skye.  Heading down toward the Lochcarron turn off, Ed doubled back, saying “I have always wanted to take this road to Plockton.” At that point, what went through my head was, I hope this doesn’t add too many miles to the route, it was after all about 26 degrees and my goretex was stuck to me already!

It is a pretty village.  We had a look, and tried to find the obvious road out of the village to take the twisties to Lochcarron, and ended up having to ask a workman for the right turn off…. I know, men don’t usually do that.  Why he didn’t put it into his sat nav beats me!! At this point have a biking tip – take care going on single track roads, where there is shade over the road, gravel is not the easiest thing to see!! Nearly had a skittery moment going out of Plockton. However, I dumped the clutch and survived – phew!

Eventually, after some hairy twisties, we got back onto the main road.  Lochcarron was essential for fuel, we didn’t want to head up over the hill to Applecross with any doubt of there being fuel available.  Now, by this time it was 5 o’clock.  We wanted to be in Applecross by 5.  I guess that wasn’t going to happen.  We hadn’t stopped for lunch, and Ed did say when we arrived in Lochcarron that he wished we had not booked for Applecross. He was concerned that I would be tired and cranky – I was ok though, amazing what a seat in the shade and a can of Red Bull can do for you.

Stopping at the bottom of the road does make you have second thoughts.  I have heard all about this road, known as the Bealach na Ba.  There are all sorts of warnings at the turn off to the single track road:

Me at The Applecross Junction

Me at The Applecross Junction

Yup, the warnings were correct. First gear hair pin bends.  The views however, on this gorgeous day, were truly stunning, in actual fact, when I looked up the Wikipedia link above, I thought to myself that they stole MY picture – well, Ed gets the credit for riding the bike back down the hair pin bends to get a couple of corkers:

Bealach na Ba

Bealach na Ba

Bealach na Ba

Bealach na Ba

Have the Canadians been here?

Have the Canadians been here?

The stone ‘formations’ in this picture are right at the top of the Bealach na Ba.  What is interesting, Ed had been in this very spot only the week before and they were not there!! Hmmm.  The reason I have questioned if there had been Canadians up there was the similarity to the Canadian emblem for the 2010 winter Olympics.

Vancouver 2010 Olympic emblem

Vancouver 2010 Olympic emblem

For centuries, the Inuit people of Canada’s Arctic stacked rock in human form to create the inukshuk, a guidepost that provided direction across the vast Inukshuk horizons of the North (see right). The Vancouver Games will be represented by a modern interpretation of the inukshuk called Ilaanaq, the Inuit word for “friend.”

There – every day should be a school day after all! I was a bit puzzled when I saw them, and did automatically think of the inukshuk and its role in the Inuit life, however, just presumed that they had been at the top of this mountain pass for ages. Erm, not! They have sprung up in a week!

I had headed off down the hill to Applecross on my own leaving Ed doing his photography bit, it was totally breathtaking! He caught me up just as I arrived in the village.

Looking down upon Applecross

Looking down upon Applecross

I could not strip off my goretex fast enough when we got to our destination of the Applecross Inn. I hope I didn’t put too many folks off their beers by stripping to my shorts and (not a lot of it) vest top.  Attractive? Not. Practical? Yup! We couldn’t get to the bar quick enough for a beer and a bit of shade.  The lady behind the bar took one look at me in my sweaty state and asked: “Have you just run here?” Well, I found it tough enough riding a motorcycle there, never mind contemplating WALKING!!

We checked in as quickly as possible, showered, changed, back to the bar for another refreshing drink.  We ordered our food with the efficient staff and wandered out side to admire the scenery.  It was gob-smackingly gorgeous. I am really glad that we went there that night, and not just pass through on the way to somewhere else during the day.  It was so worth it for the sunset pictures that I took with my little camera.

View from Applecross

View from Applecross

The Cuillins from Applecross

The Cuillins from Applecross

Sunset from Applecross

Sunset from Applecross

The food that was served up was really well received, that’s for sure! I must say it was all beautifully tasty and the staff very efficient! They are obviously very busy for the best part of the year, and looked as though they were well used to it!! I really did enjoy the Applecross experience and thank you very much Red Bull for helping me up to the top of the hill, it did give me the wings I needed.

I slept for Scotland that night! I think I made it beyond 10pm.  Mind you, maybe not. Zzzzzzz :)

More later…..

A tour of the West Coast of Scotland on the motorbikes. Part 1

Monday, June 29th, 2009

Sunshine and motorbikes.  What an excellent combination.  We headed off on the Monday morning, for the first lap of our wee tour of the West Coast of Scotland. The sun was shining, sky was blue.  How absolutely perfect! We filled with fuel, checked the tyres, oil and Ed adjusted and tightened my off-side wing mirror, snapped on the paniers filled to the brim with everything – including a thermal top and waterproof socks – it’s Scotland afterall!

It just so happens we were in no hurry to leave, which is nice, I hate the “Come on…. come on…… let’s get going” lark. Far too stressful! So, we wandered up a very busy Glencoe with me leading the way on my Suzuki SV 650 until Ballahuilish, where Ed roared passed me and pulled into the layby before the bridge.  I honestly thought that I had done something wrong, but no, thankfully, Ed had the brilliant idea of stopping for lunch at The Lochleven Seafood Café – one of our favourite destinations! Lovely clams and scallops – not too much to eat, considering we had a  wee journey to do – didn’t want to eat too much and have to stop for a nap! There is no better way to start our adventure!

So, we headed off, through a very busy Fort William – as a ‘local’ the best part of Fort William is the road that by-passes it – very pretty, but honestly for me, not terribly exciting! We had just gone through Spean Bridge, and got a quick glance at the fire devastation caused a few weeks ago. Wow, just as well that the place was not open when that took hold!

Heading up the hill, I noticed that my wing mirror had slipped again. Damn. I pulled over into a layby that had 4 German bikers stopped.  I got off the bike, and honestly my thoughts were, how hard can it be to sort the mirror.  I unlocked my seat, got out the tool kit, and fished a spanner out of the bag. Determined to sort it myself, I was thinking: “Righty-tighty, lefty-loosy” so started to tighten the wing mirror, when much to my disgust, I was left standing there with spanner in one hand and wing mirror in the other.  Oops. At that point, I called to Ed, who was by now giving the German tourists the low-down on the best places to go to in Scotland. I just gave him what could be considered to be my best ‘pathetic woman’ look, holding up the offending articles.  The mirror was slightly threaded, but after the Ed touch, it was soon back in place and I was on my way again.  At this point, Ed stayed for a bitty and gave the Germans a bit more advice, so I was left on my own to blatter up the road to Skye.  Bliss .  What was even better, when I got to the Caledonian Canal swing bridge, the lights were at red, so I was able to sneak in front of all the 20 cars/caravans/campervans to the front of the queue!

The journey after that was so, so peaceful.  I passed one car, and all the rest of the traffic was heading south.  It was just excellent, having the road to myself.  I did pass the part of the road where I lost part of my helmet last year, and thought about stopping to look for it (don’t be silly), had the most amazing drive for miles, until Ed caught up with me, just in time to stop for fuel. Stopped in at the Eilean Donan Castle for a rest and a slug of Irn Bru – THE national drink!!

Onwards to Skye.  At Broadford, you take a left turn after the petrol station to go to Elgol.  Be warned, it is a single track road, not for the feint hearted, populated by mad sheep, coos, and calves.  They are all over the place! They wander all over the road, without a care in the world.

How can you tell which cow is on her holidays? She is the one with the wee calf.

Getting closer to Elgol, the weather had set in – it was like pea soup.  By the time we were a mile away from Coruisk, it should have looked like this:

Elgol on a clear day

Elgol on a clear day

However, Ed by now was all of 50 m in front of me, and I couldn’t see his rear light it was that bad! I ended up having to lift my visor and just get my glasses wet for the last half mile of road.

Soon after we arrived at Coruisk House:

Coruisk House, Elgol

Coruisk House, Elgol

Unpacked and in a jiffy had a glass of wine, our feet up and had a catch up with Robin and Lesley, the owners of this ace place! Dinner was as usual superb, and the craic during and after was fantastic.  Much to the delight of the upstairs guests, Ed and I sat blethering to a couple from Hamilton, Aileen and Willie – all the while, Ed and Willie were slowly but surely sampling the delights of Robin’s whisky collection.  Mind you, after a couple of ports, I hit the whisky too!! I believe it was about 1.45am when we went upstairs and Aileen and Willie staggered to the Black Cottage!

The next day dawned and it was truly stunning,

Elgol from the Harbour

Elgol from the Harbour

so, Lesley gave Liz, her American staff member time off so that she could come with us on a trip round Skye. We eventually managed to get her a helmet – the first effort was a cyclist helmet – that just wouldn’t do! The chances of us seeing police on the island let alone being stopped was slim, but let’s get real, we didn’t want to take the risk, so after some phone calls to the locals, we managed to get one!

The view from the harbour was truly stunning, where else in the world would you care to be with that on your doorstep!

Leaving Elgol, there was another BMW rider in front of us – as Ed says, you would have thought that he was driving a bus.  Going very, very cautiously – driving even slower than I would, that’s for sure! It was so bad, that we passed a cyclist, before we headed down the hill into one of the hamlets – the next thing – WHIZZZZZ the cyclist passed me on the hill!!!! Blimey, I nearly fell off from laughing so much! I am not really known for being overtaken at the best of times – but to be overtaken by a cyclist was just too much!!!

We headed up to Portree via the Sligachan Hotel for a sample of Eric’s finest, then we were off to Skye Batiks where we spent a small fortune on some new funky baggies – thanks to Gavin the owner for replacing my previously purchased ones which very quickly had developed a hole which was irreparable.  Onwards from there we went up to Trotternish. Wow. What scenery. We stopped at Kilt Rock for the staggering scenery, the rock formations looking like tartan, hence the name!

Kilt rock

Kilt rock

By the time we had done all that, we were ready for a wee stop – if you’re up there, then take the wee road over the top of Trotternish, it is amazing – with a couple of lethal hair-pin bends.  The view, yet again was stunning and I would certainly recommend it! There was a wee snack van which suited our needs, so we sat on the top of the hill with a view over the valley below and ate a sandwich, and watched a cyclist ride all the way up the hill.  Good grief, it was bad enough with and engine, never mind pedal power!

Trotternish from the top!

Trotternish from the top!

Trotternish from the top - the hairpin

Trotternish from the top - the hairpin

We headed back down then via Portree and yup, you guessed it, the Sligachan Inn for a small refreshment before Ed and Liz blattered back to Elgol so that Liz could get her dinner before she started work.  I was left to take in the view and catch another couple of pictures.  I had a lovely wander back. Nice.

Elgol reflections

Elgol reflections

So, that was day one and two of our wee holiday.  Dinner at night was a bit of a calmer affair after the blow out the night before.  We were worn out after the venture round the Island, sunshine and scenery blowing us away.  Bedtime was a damn sight earlier than the first night, that’s for sure!

That’s all for now. Part II coming soon.  Just for good measure, here’s another picture of Elgol.  Eye candy.

Elgol Eye Candy

Elgol Eye Candy

Boobs and Blunders….

Friday, June 12th, 2009

What can I say about a title like that, other than boobs and blunders are definitely part of my life. It would be boring though to go through life without having a laugh. The best gift to have in life, in my opinion is to be able to laugh at yourself. If you can’t do that, then really you shouldn’t have a laugh at other people’s expense…. Ok, ignore that – just laugh at them anyway!

Living up here in the sticks can have its entertaining moments. I have a book (or two) which is full of customer comments, criticisms and laughs. I have wanted for years now to write a wee book, with recipes and customer gags. This is as close as I have managed to get there!

We had Dutch friends to stay last week. Their grasp of the English language is truly awesome. As much as I can say “Thank you; you’re welcome; enjoy your meal and a dialect version of Cheerio” in Dutch, it’s still amazing the language skills they have! Mind you, I wonder in the good ol’ days when they invented the Dutch language it was made awkward on purpose!

Solange and Henk when they stayed shared a couple of belters. When having drinks in a pub, Solange instead of saying “Slàinte Mhath” raised her glass and said “Up Yours!” ….. oops! Henk on the other hand was in a coffee bar and the Barista asked if he would like chocolate on his cappuccino. Instead of saying “I’d love some…” he said “I love you….” He did get a strange look!! Still, their English is better than my Dutch so I can hardly criticise! It was funny though!

When I used to go on my holidays to Portugal, I learned quite a lot of the language, including some cracking swear words. One word in particular ‘sounds like’ “Brush” but is actually something that should be in a chapter of Kama Sutra. We had a Portuguese member of staff working with us, who was asked to ‘Brush’ the floor. To say he flipped his lid, taking exception to the request was an understatement. I was called down to speak to him… In my limited, but apparently understandable Portuguese, I explained it was not what he thought. Luckily he calmed down enough to sweep the floor.

The Scots language you have to admit must be a bit hard for visitors to understand. Some parts of Scotland – mainly in the borders, use “Ken?” I heard a story the other day about someone who couldn’t work out who Ken was, “Ya ken?” The other cracker would have to be the double positive = negative, the best understatement in the Scots language in my opinion: “Aye, right.”

I met an American recently at work who asked of his tour guide: “Who is this guy Ben Nevis that you keep going on about?” I did have to apologise to him for roaring with laughter. Gave him a free coffee to go!

Not being known for my subtlety, I had to phone up a local business man this morning to ask him to pay for food hygiene training from two months ago. I met him last week and reminded him that he hadn’t paid yet.

On the phone this morning, he said, “Oh, I know I wrote the cheque out and put it in an envelope…. But I didn’t know your address, and had to look it up on the website….” WTF? I called him a loony. It was out my mouth before I could help myself. See, he lives all of 6 miles away. He could put my name on the envelope, add Tyndrum, and it would get to me, fine. I don’t think he appreciated it much. He hung up on me. Darn that outside voice.

**update** cash from said businessman delivered the next day. Cool. :)